Mauri Taleggio: Italy’s Newspaper Cheese

Mauri Taleggio is a semi-soft washed rind cheese made by Mauri Formaggi in northern Italy. It is instantly recognisable due to its signature square shape. Read on to learn more about the history of this remarkable cheese, how it is made, what it tastes like and how best to serve it.

Square of Mauri Taleggio styled with olive oil and mushrooms

Where does Taleggio come from?

Taleggio is a soft washed rind cheese that dates back to the 10th century. Actually, local artisans named the cheese after its area of origin, Val Taleggio. This picturesque valley is found in the province of Bergamo in northern Italy.

A solution to excess milk

Because the local dairy farmers were producing excess milk, they needed a way to avoid wastage. Unsurprisingly, the solution they came up with was to preserve the milk by making cheese.

As the popularity of their local Taleggio grew, production spread throughout the Po Valley. And, over time, many small and medium-sized cheese dairies opened up.

Presently, the Taleggio name is protected by a DOP stamp. As a result of this, its production is restricted to the Lombardia, Veneto and Piemonte regions.

How Taleggio is made

To get the production of Taleggio under way, the cheesemaker heats the cow’s milk to a maximum temperature of 35 °C. Afterwards, they add rennet and starter culture to separate the curd from the whey.

Next, they proceed to break the curd over two steps. The reason for this is to craft a cheese with optimal textural consistency. Eventually, they extract the curd and transfer it to the iconic square moulds.

Steaming the cheese

Thereafter, the cheesemaker steams the bricks of cheese to eliminate all remaining whey and acidify the cheese. Overall, steaming lasts from 8 to 16 hours and takes place in temperature and humidity controlled cellars.

During this step, the cheesemaker turns the cheese regularly to maintain a uniform texture. Finally, they brand the cheese with a signature symbol (see image above).

Maturation of Taleggio

Currently, Emilio Mauri is the only cheesemaker in Lombardia who still utilises the traditional cave ripening method. Undeniably, the local natural granite caves of Valsassina provide the perfect microclimate for mould to grow.
 
The unique environment inside the caves produces a cheese with a trademark aroma and texture. In total, the cheese spends up to fifty days on planks of wood that have been sponged with salt water.

Wrapped in newspaper

Mauri Taleggio wrapped in newspaper

After maturation is complete, the cheese maker wraps the blocks of cheese in a quirky newspaper-style wrap. Significantly, the wrap allows the cheese to breathe and mature further.

When it is ready for consumption, Taleggio has a thin, soft pinkish rind with patches of grey-green mould. Under the rind, its paste is uniform and compact. When ripe, the light yellow paste softens to become creamy and oozy, even at room temperature.

What Mauri Taleggio tastes like

Overall, Mauri Taleggio has a mild yeasty aroma and a rich flavour of cured meats and truffles. Surprisingly, it also has subtle sweet notes which become more earthy near the rind.

How to serve Mauri Taleggio

Without a doubt, Mauri Taleggio is great on a cheese board. Before serving, bring it to room temperature and pair with a local Pinot Grigio or Soave.

Moreover, Taleggio also excels as an addition to pasta, soups and crepes. Lastly, this cheese really comes into its own melted with mushrooms in a cheese toasted sandwich!

Substitutes to Taleggio

Some great alternatives to Taleggio for melting are Raclette, Vacherin Fribourgeois and Gruyère.

Thank you for reading

Thank you for reading this post about yet another amazing artisanal cheese. Have you tried this cheese before? Drop us a comment below with your thoughts.

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Finally, keep scrolling to find some more cheeses and recipes that have been recommended for you. Keep it cheesy!

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