Gorwydd Caerphilly is a Welsh cheese made in Somerset
A traditional Welsh recipe
Gorwydd Caerphilly is an organic raw milk semi-hard cheese made by Todd and Maugan Trethowan in Somerset, England.
Actually, the recipe for Caerphilly finds its roots in South Wales. Going back to the early 19th century, it used to be a staple snack for miners and local farmhands. However, by the late 19th century, it had all but disappeared.
Revived in Somerset
Across the border in Somerset, this traditional cheese persevered thanks to local Cheddar makers. Indeed, it made complete sense for the local artisans to have a quicker maturing cheese to make and sell while they were waiting for their Cheddar to age.
Why Caerphilly?
In 1996, Todd Trethowan was working at Neal’s Yard Dairy while he was attending college. During that time, his plan was to return to his family farm, Gorwydd, in Ceredigion, West Wales.
By that time, there wasn’t a single dairy making traditional Caerphilly in the area. In order to learn how to make the cheese, Todd got an apprenticeship under Chris Duckett. Based in Somerset, Chris Duckett was the only traditional Caerphilly maker left in the United Kingdom.
Named after their family farm
Upon his return to the family farm, Todd started making Gorwydd Caerphilly, with a focus on experimentation. After his first batch was ready, he sent the cheeses to Neal’s Yard Dairy in London. And, the rest is history!
Within 12 months, Gorwydd Caerphilly would be available throughout the UK in specialty cheese shops.
How Gorwydd Caerphilly is made
It all starts with their organic, raw cow’s milk. Remarkably, the entire production process is done by hand, except for the stirring of the milk.
After the wheels are formed, they are matured for up to four months. In fact, this is double the length of time most modern Caerphilly’s are aged for. As a result, this cheese has incredible complexity and texture.
Moving back to Somerset
In 2014, their operation had outgrown the space and facilities on the family farm. Consequently, Todd and his brother Maugan decided to move to Puxton Farm in Somerset.
The reason why they chose this particular farm is because the owner had a herd of organically reared Holstein and Jersey cows. And their milk was perfect for cheese making.
Once they had settled in, they set about recreating the ideal microclimate that Caerphilly needs to thrive. They even brought with them the unique bacterial culture from their old dairy in West Wales. That culture lends the unique grey velvety rind to their cheese.
What does Gorwydd Caerphilly taste like?
Gorwydd Caerphilly is an incredibly complex and nuanced cheese. Firstly, the edible rind has notes of mushroom.
Next, the paste of the cheese just under the rind breaks down slightly to develop a slightly creamy texture. In the middle, the texture is crumbly with a citrusy tang.
How to pair Caerphilly
Gorwydd Caerphilly’s flavour is brought out when served alone or paired with a dry Chardonnay or Pinot Gris.
Furthermore, you can pair this semi-hard wonder with a crunchy baguette and stone fruit.
Substitutes for Gorwydd Caerphilly
If you’re unable to find Caerphilly, a young, creamy English cheddar can serve as a substitute in recipes.
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