Ossau-Iraty Archives | Cheese Atlas

Ossau-Iraty: Pride of the French Pays Basque

Cheese Atlas — Tue, 07 Sep 2021 05:15:05 +0000

There are few cheeses around the world that bring up as much passion as Ossau-Iraty. Indeed, this traditional pressed uncooked sheep’s milk cheese is the pride of the Pays Basque region of France. Read on to learn about its history, how it is made, what it tastes like and how to serve it like the Basque.

Where does Ossau-Iraty come from?

Ossau-Iraty is a traditional pressed uncooked sheep’s milk cheese from France’s Pays Basque and Béarn regions. This picturesque region in the Pyrenees is near the border with Spain. As a matter of fact, its geographic location and climate have made it a prized region for agriculture since the neolithic times.

Moreover, the amount of rain and minerals in the soil produce a fresh grass in the plains that is well suited to sheep.

The Ossau Valley and Irati Forest

Firstly, let’s take a closer look at the areas of production. The first one is Northern Pays Basque’s Irati beech forest. Traditionally, cheesemakers in this region made a semi-hard cheese called Ardi. It is typically on the smaller side weighing in at around 2.2 kg (5 lbs).

On the other hand, farmers in the Ossau Valley tend to make much larger wheels of cheese that weight around 4 kg (8.5 lbs). In fact, the modern Ossau-Iraty is a blend of those two regions’ traditions. Consequently, the wheels come in both sizes.

Protected by an AOP stamp

Fast forward to 2021 and Ossau-Iraty is now protected in Europe by an AOP stamp. It is actually only the second sheep’s milk cheese to bear this stamp, after the famous Roquefort. Furthermore, the AOP dictates in their “cahiers de charges” that this cheese can only be made in the French Pays Basque and Béarn regions using local milk.

The milk used to make Ossau-Iraty

Also, the AOP specifies that Ossau-Iraty can only be made from the milk of three breeds of sheep. Namely, the Red-Faced Manech, Black-Faced Manech and Basco-Béarnaise.

Those three breeds are particularly well adapted to the terroir of the region and thrive in humid cool conditions. Moreover, the farmers can only feed them grass and non genetically modified cereals. Whilst they tend to yield less milk than other sheep, they are better adapted to the climate and the practice of transhumance.

What is transhumance?

In order to preserve the grass on their property for the winter months, the majority of farmers follow the traditional practice of transhumance. From May in the Pays Basque and June in Béarne, the herders move their sheep to summer pastures at higher altitude.

Actually, they will spend all of summer and the beginning of autumn feeding on this high altitude grass. As a result of this, the grass at lower altitudes can replenish in time for late autumn. The milk collected during those months is used to make the celebrated summer cheeses called Ossau-Iraty d’Estive. Come the end of autumn, the herd will return to lower grounds and start to lamb. Overall, this process is very important for the sheep, the farmers and the natural eco-system of the mountain.

How to make Ossau-Iraty

The traditional recipe for this semi-hard cheese has remained largely untouched over the millenia. Raw whole ewe’s milk is mixed with culture and rennet. Once the curd is formed, it is cut and drained.

Afterwards, the cheesemaker heats the curd to separate from whey and then transfer the solids to the cheese moulds. Finally, the moulds are pressed and drained. At this point, the cheese has attained its signature form. Subsequently, the wheels are salted and then passed on to the affineur for maturation.

How Ossau-Iraty is matured

The AOP specifies that Ossau-Iraty wheels have to be matured for a minimum of 80 days for the smaller format and 120 days for the larger one. At this point, the cheese will have a fat content of 50% and a gorgeous natural rind.

There is one point of difference between the 2 regions of production though. In Pays Basque, the wheels are matured in dry caves whereas in Béarn, they tend to be very humid. Moreover, the affineur in Pays Basque regularly brushes the cheese with a dry brush whereas, in Béarn, they wipe the wheels with a cloth imbibed in brine.

Those differences in practice lead to slightly different textures, aromas and flavours for the cheeses coming from each location. Overall, this process will last from 80 days to 12 months in some cases.

What Ossau-Iraty tastes like

This semi-hard beauty from the Pyrenees has a hay-coloured patchy rind and a pristine ivory pâte. Its aroma is surprisingly buttery and sweet with a touch of barnyard.

On the palate, you will detect notes of toasted wheat, roasted nuts, fresh grass and wildflowers. As the cheese ages, its creamy texture starts to become firm and calcium crystals start to appear. The flavour also tends to be more savoury.

How to serve Ossau-Iraty like the Basque

The traditional Basque way to serve sheep’s milk cheese is to thinly slice the cheese. It is then served with a local Itxassou cherry paste and crunchy bread. It will also pair beautifully with a juicy Bordeaux, a robust Rhône or a tawny Port.

Thank you for reading

Thank you for reading this post about yet another amazing artisanal cheese. Have you tried this cheese before? Drop us a comment below with your thoughts.

If you enjoy learning about new cheeses, you can subscribe to our newsletter below. You will hear from us about once a week as we share new cheese profiles with you.

Finally, keep scrolling to find some more cheeses and recipes that have been recommended for you. Keep it cheesy!

The post Ossau-Iraty: Pride of the French Pays Basque appeared first on Cheese Atlas.

Moyarra Reserve

Cheese Atlas — Thu, 15 Oct 2020 22:43:00 +0000

Victoria’s first raw milk cheese

Moyarra Reserve is a semi-hard sheep’s milk cheese made by Prom Country Cheese in Moyarra, South Gippsland. This historical cheese is the first commercially available raw milk cheese made in Victoria in almost 80 years.

For many years now, Burke and Bronwyn Brandon have been trying to make cheeses that truly celebrate the unique quality of their ewe’s milk.

Cultures from the Venus Blue

Initially, they isolated the microbial cultures that live in their raw milk in a laboratory. They then added those cultures back to pasteurised milk to make their signature cheese, the Venus Blue.

This process means that the Venus Blue has qualities that are unique to their farm.

A team effort

Working together with like-minded industry partners, the couple successfully lobbied the local regulators for the introduction of new food safety regulations.

Those regulations would allow the production of raw milk cheeses in Australia, albeit under very strict guidelines.

Burke and Bronwyn spent two years developing a new cheese that would meet those requirements. In order to do so, they had to upgrade their food safety plan and procedures.

In March 2020, the regulators finally granted them approval to produce a specific raw milk cheese. Their milk would have to pass strict hygiene testing and come from only healthy udders.

Meet Moyarra Reserve

For Moyarra Reserve, the ewe’s milk and curds are not cooked (pasteurised) at any stage of the process.

Instead, a pre-ripened mother culture is added right back at the dairy, as the raw milk flows from the udders into the vat.

Very strict requirements

Furthermore, all of their equipment has to be sanitised, including the ewes’ teats prior to milking. A mixture of morning and evening milk is immediately transferred to the cheesemaking vat to be warmed back to body temperature.

The wheels of cheese must meet a maximum moisture percentage limit before being hand salted with sea salt for the next 3 days. For this reason, Moyarra Reserve must be matured at 12°c for over 5 months. At that point, it has to pass extensive final lab testing to guarantee it is safe to eat.

A celebration of terroir

The end product is a cheese that could not possibly be made anywhere else in the world. Producing such a raw milk cheese is certainly made expensive by all the restrictions currently in place in Australia. However, Burke and Bronwyn firmly believe that it is well worth it.

Farmhouse cheesemakers are best equipped to make raw milk cheeses in Australia because they are in full control of every step of the process. They can ensure that the milk quality and manufacturing processes all meet the brief that has been laid out by the food authorities.

How to enjoy Moyarra Reserve

At 5 months, the cheese develops a thin rusty-red coloured rind that wraps around a straw-coloured pâte. Moreover, the aroma is a little bit wild and the texture is reminiscent of the famous French sheep’s milk cheese, Ossau-Iraty.

On the palate, this stellar cheese is savoury with some notes of caramel and a subtly spicy finish. Furthermore, the edible rind adds a bit of crunch and has more concentrated earthy flavours.

Enjoy with a crunchy baguette, some extra virgin olive oil and smoked dukkah. Pair with a sweet Riesling or Sauternes.

What next?

So, where does all of that leave us? Raw milk cheeses certainly provide the best way to let the milk shine with minimal intervention. Having said that, it does not mean that all raw milk cheeses are better than pasteurised milk cheeses. There are some spectacular artisanal pasteurised milk cheeses out there, both made locally and imported.

Without a doubt, Moyarra Reserve is a landmark cheese for Victoria. We can expect it to pave the way for many more raw milk cheeses. And we can not wait!

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Shepherd’s Store: The Irish Ossau-Iraty

Cheese Atlas — Sun, 09 Aug 2020 05:38:44 +0000

About Shepherd's Store

Shepherd’s Store is a semi-hard cheese handmade by Cashel Farmhouse Cheesemakers in County Tipperary, Ireland. The artisanal cheesemaker is well-known for their signature blue cheeses, the Cashel Blue and Crozier Blue. They have now added a mountain-style cheese to their growing range.

How Shepherd's Store is made

This stunning cheese is made using pasteurised Irish Friesland sheep’s milk during the lactation months from February to September. The pasteurisation process is carried out in a gentle manner so as to preserve some of the more subtle qualities of the milk. Ultimately, each wheel will weigh up to 5kg and require 50 litres of milk.

Furthermore, Shepherd’s Store is matured for up to 6 months. During this time, they wash and turn each wheel by hand every week. This meticulous process results in a grassy aroma, beautifully balanced flavour and smooth, melt-in-your-mouth texture.

Compared to other famous European sheep’s milk cheeses, this semi-hard cheese is creamier than a Manchego or Pecorino. Besides, the texture and aroma are more reminiscent of Ossau Iraty, a traditional Basque cheese made in the French Pyrénées.

Pairing guide

Enjoy with some cherry paste on fig crackers and a glass of Pinot Noir. It also shines when added to a green salad with toasted pine nuts, ripe tomatoes and prosciutto.

Thank you for reading

Thank you for reading this post about yet another amazing artisanal cheese. Have you tried this cheese before? Drop us a comment below with your thoughts.

If you enjoy learning about new cheeses, you can subscribe to our newsletter below. You will hear from us about once a week as we share new cheese profiles with you.

Finally, keep scrolling to find some more cheeses and recipes that have been recommended for you. Keep it cheesy!

The post Shepherd’s Store: The Irish Ossau-Iraty appeared first on Cheese Atlas.